The Port of Arrecife
The Canary Islands are made up of seven islands: Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Palma. Our first port of call was in Arrecife (R-a-cee-fa), Lanzarote. The Island of Lanzarote is volcanic in origin and shaped by eruptions in the 18th and 19th centuries. It has an almost lunar appearance (but to me it looks more like Mars, now that we know what Mars looks like.) Rumor has it that some test runs for the Apollo mission were done here to try machinery for the lunar landing. It was also used as the setting for 1970’s
Planet of the Apes.Our first stop of the day was at Our Lady of Sorrows Church. The festival of Virgen de los Volcanes began in 1780 when a procession carrying the image of Our Lady of Dolores (Sorrows) miraculously ended a lava flow threatening to reach the village of Tinajo. The cross in the bottom right picture marks the spot where the lava flow stopped.
The next stop was Timanfaya National Park. The park covers 12,600 acres and has 100 volcanoes and 300 craters. It looks quite barren, but there is a lot of plant and animal life there (small though they may be). And the people have figured out how to grow in this volcanic soil.
Two of the many craters visible in the park
The visitor's center demonstrated the volcanic heat still present by
shoveling hot rocks into our hands. Ouch!
The on-site restaurant uses volcanic heat for cooking. They throw brush into the pit and use the fire to grill. No need for lighter fluid or a match!
This gentleman demonstrated the volcanic heat another way by pouring a bucket of water 4 meters down a pipe and causing a geyser of steam two seconds later.
Looking out over the lava fields
The greatest recorded eruptions in the Canary Islands occurred between 1730 and 1736 in the area that is now the national park. The island endured six years of fissure eruptions that formed the Montañas del Fuego, and produced lava flows that reached the western coast, destroying the villages of Maretas and Santa Catalina, along with the most fertile valleys and estates on the island. The island's last eruption during 1824 produced a much smaller lava flow that reached the southwest coast.
Lanzarote has a subtropical desert climate, and its inhabitants have adapted their farming to be successful in such a harsh environment. They dig holes so the plants are below grade, and build rock walls to protect the fragile plants from the trade winds. They have also discovered that the volcanic sand helps to moderate temperatures and retain what little moisture is available.
Another highlight for me came next. We went for a camel ride in the hills. This lovely lady carried me and a fellow passenger around in seats that hung off either side of her hump. She was the leader of the group, so I got to hold her rope and be in charge for a while. I was very good. Or more likely, she knew the route very well.
Mirador del Rio is the best viewpoint on the island, on Famara Cliff. You can look out over the northern coastline and the island's oldest salt plains (no longer in operation). This vista was designed by local artist Cesar Manrique in 1973, and sits at an elevation of 1,630 feet above sea level.
Our last stop was at Jameos del Agua, a four-mile long volcanic tunnel formed by molten lava and turned into a garden, pool, bar, and auditorium. It was also designed by Cesar Manrique. The volcanic tunnel was formed from an eruption of the La Corona volcano over 3,000 years ago. Discovered in 1968, these open spaces have been transformed.
Manrique had enormous influence on the development of Lanzarote. He even implemented a white with green, brown or blue trim color scheme for all new buildings to suggest “coolness and tranquility.” The country is very concerned with conservation, and with limits on building heights so as not to obstruct views of their natural setting.
I had another unexpected and interesting day. Just one more port until we head home!
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