Talofa (or as I like to say, TAAAA LOOOOOOO FAAAAAA!)

Pago Pago: or “Pahngo Pahngo”, (I heard it either way on the island) is on the island of Tutuila, the largest island of American Samoa. English and Samoan are the primary languages spoken here. Talofa means Hello in Samoan. But I find it fun to say it really stretched out and loud, similar to Aloha.

We had a cloudy and rainy day in port. Enough to block the sun and sprinkle some rain on us, maybe chase us under an awning for a few minutes. Then it would stop, and the humidity would climb a bit more. In the morning I walked near the port to a little open-air market (like a flea market back home) to look at the local wares. After seeing all my friends in their new Polynesian outfits, I’m kicking myself that I didn’t buy something too.

In the afternoon I took a bus tour around to see what life is like on this pretty little island. The bus we took was an actual local bus with wooden seats that could hold up to 30 people and open plastic windows. There was a string to pull when you wanted the bus to stop (if you were not on a tour), and steep steps to climb in and out.

Most every home had a “fale”, also called a “guest house” in front of each home that look like large gazebos where families entertain their guests. We stopped at a local park for some pictures. As was Saturday, there were many families out having parties and picnics, playing in the water. Our guide explained that the children only have Saturdays for fun – school and homework are Monday to Friday, and Sundays are church and home only, to spend time with the family.

We stopped at a shrine in memory of those they lost in a tsunami in 2012. They had pictures of each of the people, and instead of date of birth, they had “Sunrise” and the date. I thought that was so powerful and moving. I like the idea of each of us having our own sunrise and sunset.

We saw Flowerpot Rock on our way to a traditional Samoan village and home. The owner’s parents had passed on, so she carried on the tradition of hosting and teaching about the Samoan way of life. We were given a demonstration of how to cook in an ummu (a ground oven). The men do the cooking in Samoan society, so the men of the village demonstrated how to husk and break down a coconut, how to prepare their version of “spinach”, and how to cook several things in the oven. We were then allowed to go around to several stands and sample different foods. One thing I learned is that coconut meat has two types – one is the regular one we westerners are familiar with, and the other is sprouted coconut. When you open a ripe coconut, you get the water out that you can drink. If you leave the coconut down and let it germinate, the water will eventually feed a sprout out of the coconut, and turn the coconut meat into a different texture – very sponge-like, and I didn’t think it was as flavorful. The fresh coconut was still on the husk, and I was afraid to chip a tooth trying a bite.

Men at work

We had koko samoa, which is a comfort drink for Samoans. They ground up cocoa nibs and boil them into a delicious drink. It was very sweet, but I enjoyed my little taste. They also gave us tuna in coconut milk, chicken from the ummu, and spinach (some local leaves with coconut milk in the center, then wrapped with taro leaves, then breadfruit leaves into a ball, then steamed in the oven. Normally I am not too adventurous with food, so I always ask for just a little taste so I can try it and not waste food. This time I wished I had gotten more – it was very tasty. The coconut milk was not overpowering but gave a nice base to the fish and greens. The chicken was very simply roasted.

After our sampling, ladies from the family came out and gave us a dancing demonstration. It is very interesting how the different islands of Polynesia have a hula dance, but each has its own style and interpretation. These young girls were so polite and welcoming, and they danced so gracefully. They ran around helping out at each of the stations.

As we rode back along the main road through the towns to the ship, people everywhere were waving to us in our little bus. People in their homes, people riding in pickup trucks, and people swimming in the ocean. At first, I thought it was so nice, then when my arm started getting tired of all the waving, I thought the locals may be having a bit of fun with the tourists – let’s see how much we can make them wave. But then I learned that ours was only the second ship to dock here since the pandemic shut down, and I was reassured that they really were so happy to see us.

I almost forgot to mention the best part! Here they bury their relatives in the front yard. Yes. White marble slabs with grave markers in the front yard. Usually under a pergola of some sort. Some were even enclosed with glass and had large photos and plastic flowers as memorials. I wonder what happens if they move? Anyway, it was kind of sweet seeing the kids leaving their toys on top of grandma and grandpa, or the dog napping in the shade with Auntie. Like they are still around and part of the family. My favorite shrine was the life-sized metal cutout of Mama in her red and white muumuu bolted to the front of the house with her life statistics at her feet. That’s what I want when I go – a life-sized metal cut out, forever standing welcome and sentry at the front door.

Barbeque, hammock, big wheels and family dog all hanging around the graves

I got back on the ship just in time to join the singles and solos for a drink, grab a quick dinner then head up to my room. I freshened up and went to see the “circus artist” The Mighty Quinn, which was the night’s entertainment. He was a great entertainer, doing lots of juggling-type stunts. He used to work as a street busker in London for many years and had only recently gotten into the cruise gigs. I laughed, I gasped, it was a fun hour and he worked hard for it.

I have to say that the entertainment on the ship has been very good. In the main theater, they have something every night, whether the theater troupe, comedians, or magicians. Tonight is a harmonica guy; I’m interested to see what he comes up with to entertain me for 45 minutes. I don’t think they’ve had the same show twice yet; maybe the same performer, but they do a different set. And they all seem to be grateful to be on the cruise circuit. Once you get a good rep, you keep getting asked back and referred to different ships.

There are several other smaller venues on the ship that are fun to stop into for trivia, dance parties, game shows, cabaret-type reviews, piano bars, etc. No limit but my bedtime to the fun!

Another Stormy Sea Day: We are headed for New Zealand now with three sea days. Once in New Zealand we will visit six ports before heading to Australia, so I’m enjoying this lazy, rainy day at sea. The wind is consistently from the west, so the boat is tilted a few degrees. I had to brace myself in the shower this morning so I wouldn’t fall over. But I don’t mind – as those who know me know, I love a good storm!

After choir practice, I had a lovely brunch in the main dining room. Then headed to some enrichment lectures, and maybe an afternoon nap. I need to rest up for all the evening entertainment I have planned.