Kusadasi and Ephesus

Welcome to Turkey!

Oh, my goodness it was cold! Because we were late leaving Jerusalem, we had to make up time to Kusadasi, and we ran into some strong winds that slowed us down. It also brought a big change in the weather. My day in Ephesus did not get above 50 degrees with howling winds. I think I got frostbite. But it was worth every painful minute.

Port city of Kusadasi

For orientation, the port of Kusadasi is located on the west coast of Turkey on the Aegean Sea. My tour was Biblical Ephesus, Virgin Mary Shrine, and Private Mass. We started with the House of the Virgin Mary, which is considered a Holy Site by the Vatican. This site is believed to be the home of Mary, Mother of God, after Jesus was resurrected and ascended into heaven.

Mary's Home

Venerable Anne Catherine Emmerich, a German Augustinian nun, had visions of Mary’s life. Her writings were taken to Ephesus and used to find Mary’s home. It is a simple brick house where she lived out her later years after Jesus’ assumption. It is believed that John the Apostle brought Mary to Ephesus after Jesus’ resurrection and ascension. There is a very small catholic community, and the home and shrine were restored and maintained with donations from around the world.

Private mass at the church

The shrine is important to both Christians and Muslims, as Mary is mentioned in the Koran over 30 times. On August 15th, both pilgrims come to honor her. Our group was treated to a private mass in the church, which was a highlight of the trip for me. Outside the church, there are springs from which you can take holy water and a wishing wall where you can leave prayers and intentions.

The Wishing Wall

We took the bus to the ancient Greek city-turned-Roman provincial capital of Ephesus and toured the ruins of the ancient city, going downhill into the wind the whole way. By the second century, the population was believed to be over 300,000.

The main entrance to Ephesus

Archeologists have uncovered what was the main market street of the town.

Main Street

There are a lot of columns and cornices laid out in groups so they can piece them together again (I guess?). 

John the Apostle was believed to have spent his last years in Ephesus as well. We saw the remains of the Basilica of St. John built by Emperor Justinian over John’s tomb.

The Basilica of St. John

Lots of cats in Greece

Hadrian's Temple

There is a newly excavated site across from Hadrian’s Temple called the Terrace Houses, which was the affluent neighborhood and were finely decorated.

One of the Terrace Houses with mosaic flooring

The Great Theatre had seating for 25,000, and is the site where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians. The theatre is still in use with concerts being held there by performers such as Sting and Elton John.

The Great Theatre

After leaving the site, I ran the usual gauntlet of souvenir salesmen. I think this lady worked with them. She came over and leaned against my leg so hard she nearly knocked me over. I gave her some scratches and she followed me and stopped me two more times for more. She slowed me down enough to give the salesman a chance to pitch their wares.

I think it’s a requirement for your visit to Turkey to see a carpet weaving demonstration and be given the “opportunity” to purchase a Turkish rug. The designs were beautifully rendered, and the process of a single rug can take anywhere from 9 months to 2 years. While we watched the demonstration I enjoyed a cup of apple tea and a bread treat that was kind of like a soft pretzel stick covered in sesame seeds. Both were delicious.

This ancient technique is still used today

She is hand-tying the bits of thread in a given pattern

Apple tea served in a traditional cup and bowl

Some finished products for sale

The craftsmanship of the rugs is beautiful, and way outside my price range. For giggles, I asked how much my favorite rug was – ten thousand dollars! Yikes. When I almost fainted, the salesman explained that the rug will last for 300 years and that it is pet-accident-safe. I can’t commit to a comforter bed set, let alone a rug for the rest of my life!

I did look for a sweatshirt or jacket at the port shops, but there were none to be found that suited me. So I made my way back to the ship and thawed out with a cup of soup.

Beautiful blue skies and blue Mediterranean